Polly Pusher

Study the free Wally Wing plans since much of the construction is the same. Do the TEs and main spars the same before cutting and joining the wing sections. You'll want some vertical doublers of thin ply cut in later at the spar and TE joints to strengthen them. (Note for a very light version - Not tried yet, but possible to make wings without any wood TEs/spars and with sheet foam TEs and tail feathers for slow flyer with light-weight power systems)

The wing centers are joined (do first) with their TE straight in line as viewed from the top, and the TOP center surfaces are flat (gives slight dihedral to the center section since the wings taper in thickness) Just block it up till you can lay a straight edge flat on the top at the max thickness point.

The wing breaks are at 11 inches in from the tips measured on the LE. The tips are sweep back at about 1 inch at the tip from the adjoining mid-section wing panel LE line.

With the center section of one wing flat on the table, the tip LE is raised 1.75 inches. The tip TE should be raised about 2 inches for the built in washout. This results in a slight off-set of the LEs where joined but won't show once taped. (request a pic from me if this doesn't make sense).

Tail: The CF booms are .254 dia. and are 20" long. 1/4" cable clamps hold them real snug. Go a little thinner if you want for weight savings and to help with CG for light packs without having to add weight. There is thin-walled .230 diameter tubes that should work but you'll have to put a little heat shrink or other shim under the clamps to make them tight. Arrow shafts and fiberglass kite rods can be used for the booms also. Try to keep the tail as light as possible however for easier CG balance later.

The fronts of the booms end at the spar and they mount via either threaded spacers, blind nuts in a small square of lite ply, or threaded wing mount block etc. Glue whatever you use to the back of the spar for strength and put a square piece of reinforcing tape over it before taping the wings to keep it from pulling out.

You can adjust the incidence of the tail here with nylon washers under the clamp if needed, but mine just lays flat on the rear bottom of the wing and seems to give enough. Rear clamps bolt through the center of the TE with thin ply on top to reinforce the hole.

The booms are spaced 11 in. apart. The tail section is 18 in. "span" laying flat. (draw out on 1/4" = 1" graph paper to get layout if needed)

The outside tail surfaces are 5" wide and the center is 3.5 in. including the control surfaces. Control surface is 1.5" wide. Use the thinner type coroplast if available for tail weight savings here also or better yet, sheet foam if going for a very light version.

Lay it out so the webs of the coroplast run parallel to the hinge line. For the hinge, slice through one layer of the coro between the webs. Take a sliver out of that side between the webs to allow the other side to act as a hinge and move freely.

For the V bend, don't try to make the tail angle 90 degrees. It's much flatter than that. About a 6" rise in the center. Cut a notch half way through the bottom at the V center line and fold and tape for strength along the fold.

The rest you should be able to get from the pics. Be sure that the tail gets mounted parallel to the booms so you don't add any unknown incidence to deal with.

CG it 2.5" back from the root LE of the wing and work your way back some. She will bite bad if too far back.

Fuse pod is 14.5 " long and about flush with the TE with the motor sticking out a tad. See the Wally Wing plans for mount details. Also, get the battery pack as far forward as you can to keep from having to add nose weight.

Good Luck!

Ken Hill

Ace Sim RC